Bergen Hooded Bib
Smart Crochet Pattern
SKILL LEVEL
◆ ◆ ◆ ◇ ◇ (Intermediate)
SIZES
Child, Adult S/M, Adult L/XL
Custom Fit: Simply enter the intended wearer's head circumference and your stitch and row gauge into the generator, and the pattern will mathematically adjust to fit you perfectly.
Standard Sizing (Perfect for Gifts!): Making this for someone else? Just pick a standard size, plug those numbers in, and click "GENERATE PATTERN"
HOOKS
Hook Size (in size for your gauge) and a hook 1.5mm smaller for the ribbing and hood tie sections.
YARN
Weight: Worsted (4) or Bulky (5). Sample used Worsted (4).
Amount: Your exact yardage is automatically calculated based on your custom size and gauge. Simply enter your measurements into the pattern generator to reveal your custom yarn requirements. Planning your yarn purchase? Use the Sample Details listed below as a baseline, or plug estimated numbers into the generator for a quick yardage forecast before you shop.
GAUGE
Target Fabric Feel: Structured
Aim for a fabric that holds its shape. Go down 1 or 2 hook sizes from what your yarn label recommends.
Gauge per 4" (10cm): May range from 12-20 sts and 10-16 rows
SAMPLE DETAILS
(For reference, if you want to replicate the exact look of the photos)
Size: Adult S/M (22" head circumference).
Hooks: 5mm hook (size to meet gauge) and a 3.5mm hook (1.5mm smaller than gauge hook) for the ribbing and hood tie sections
Yarn: Custom-dyed 4-ply Worsted Weight yarn (185yds/100g).
Fiber Blend: Superwash Merino (80%), Cashmere (10%), Nylon (10%).
Amount Used: 380grams | 705 yards
Gauge: 16.5 stitches & 14 rows per 4" (10cm) in Herringbone Half Double Crochet (hhdc).
NOTIONS
Fabric clips or pins
Measuring tape
Scissors
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
NOTES
Choose Your Size: If you are making for yourself or have access to the recipient, measure their exact head circumference and type that number into the generator for a bespoke fit. If you are knitting a gift and can't measure them, simply type in the circumference for their age group found in the Head Size Standards chart.
Your Custom Gauge: Remember to wash and block your swatch before measuring! Unblocked numbers will result in incorrect yardage and a poor fit.
Written in standard US crochet terminology.
If the number comes before the abbreviation, for example: 2hdc, this means stitch the given number into the same stitch (to create an increase). If the number is given after the abbreviation, for example: hdc2, this means to stitch the given number over subsequent stitches.
If there is no number after an abbreviation (e.g., hdc, ch, sk), the instruction should be completed once.
Designed from the top-down, constructed seamlessly from the crown down.
The face opening is finished with a vertically worked rib using a "join-as-you-go" method.
A smaller hook is used for the ribbing to achieve a structured, architectural aesthetic.
Abbreviations
Tutorial Access
Specialty Techniques
SCHEMATIC
SIZE STANDARDS CHART
💡 No swatch yet? No stress. Just use the sample's gauge (16.5 stitches & 14 rows) for now to instantly calculate and generate a custom pattern preview. You can always come back and enter your exact stitch and row gauge when you're ready to start your project!
Your Gauge: per 4" (10cm) in herringbone half double crochet (hhdc)
Stitches
Rows
Tool Setup: Your Needle & Hook Sizes
Enter your actual measurements below (or select from the Size Standards chart above).
Head Circumference
👋 WELCOME TO SMART PATTERNS
Enter your custom measurements above,
then click GENERATE PATTERN.
## U-SHAPE JOIN & HOOD BODY
### U-SHAPE JOIN
Row 1 (RS): Ch1, rotate piece to work into the row ends of the side slope.
^Treat each row end as one stitch.
Evenly space {SIDE_SLOPE_STS} sts down the first side edge by working the following sequence: {SIDE_SLOPE_DISTRIBUTION}.
2hhdc in corner.
Hhdc {CROWN_START_STS} across the foundation ch.
2hhdc in corner.
Evenly space {SIDE_SLOPE_STS} sts up the remaining side edge by repeating the sequence: {SIDE_SLOPE_DISTRIBUTION}.
Turn.
({BODY_TOTAL_STS} sts)
### HOOD BODY
Rows 2-{BODY_ROWS}: Ch1, hhdc across, turn.
(WS): On the last row (Row {BODY_ROWS}), place markers on:
Front Panel: Stitch # {MARKER_1} & #{MARKER_4}.
Back Panel: Stitch # {MARKER_2} & #{MARKER_3}.
Fasten off.
{BETA: Submit Beta Feedback (https://www.poppyshop.ca/beta-feedback?section=U-SHAPE JOIN & HOOD BODY)}
## U-SHAPE JOIN & HOOD BODY
### U-SHAPE JOIN
Row 1 (RS): Ch1, rotate piece to work into the row ends of the side slope.
^Treat each row end as one stitch.
Evenly space {SIDE_SLOPE_STS} sts down the first side edge by working the following sequence: {SIDE_SLOPE_DISTRIBUTION}.
2hhdc in corner.
Hhdc {CROWN_START_STS} across the foundation ch.
2hhdc in corner.
Evenly space {SIDE_SLOPE_STS} sts up the remaining side edge by repeating the sequence: {SIDE_SLOPE_DISTRIBUTION}.
Turn.
({BODY_TOTAL_STS} sts)
### HOOD BODY
Rows 2-{BODY_ROWS}: Ch1, hhdc across, turn.
(WS): On the last row (Row {BODY_ROWS}), place markers on:
Front Panel: Stitch # {MARKER_1} & #{MARKER_4}.
Back Panel: Stitch # {MARKER_2} & #{MARKER_3}.
Fasten off.
{BETA: Submit Beta Feedback (https://www.poppyshop.ca/beta-feedback?section=U-SHAPE JOIN & HOOD BODY)}
## YOKE BASE & PANELS
### YOKE BASE
^As you work, move the Front and Back Panel stitch markers up to the new row to maintain the panel boundaries.
Rnd 1 (RS): With RS facing, join yarn at Left Back Panel Marker. Hhdc to the next Marker (Front Panel). Hhdc in the marked st and next {FRONT_SIDE_MINUS_ONE} sts. Ch {CHIN_BRIDGE_CH} (bridge). Being careful not to twist chain, join to first st of other side with a hhdc. Hhdc in next {FRONT_SIDE_MINUS_ONE} sts ending in the next marked st (Front Panel), which creates a total of {PANEL_WIDTH_STS} stitches for the Front Panel section. Hhdc to next marker (Back Panel). Hhdc across the Back Panel to the starting marker, completing the {PANEL_WIDTH_STS} stitches of the Back Panel section. Join using the invisible slip stitch method, turn. ({YOKE_RND1_STS} sts)
Rnd 2 (WS): Ch1, hhdc across Back Panel ending in the marked st. 2hhdc in next st. Hhdc to 1 st before Front Panel Marker. 2hhdc in that st. Hhdc across Front Panel (working into the ch {CHIN_BRIDGE_CH} bridge), ending in the marked st. 2hhdc in next st. Hhdc to 1 st before Back Panel Marker. 2hhdc in that st, hhdc in the marked st. Join, turn. ({YOKE_RND2_STS} sts)
Rnd 3 (RS): Ch1, hhdc in the marked st. 2hhdc in next st. Hhdc across Front Panel ending in marked st. 2hhdc in next st. Hhdc to 1 st before Back Panel Marker. 2hhdc in that st. Hhdc across Back Panel. Join, turn. ({YOKE_RND3_STS} sts)
Rnd 4 (WS): Ch1, hhdc across Back Panel ending in the marked st. 2hhdc in next st. Hhdc to 1 st before Front Panel Marker. 2hhdc in that st. Hhdc across Front Panel ending in the marked st. 2hhdc in next st. Hhdc to 1 st before Back Panel Marker. 2hhdc in that st, hhdc in the marked st. Join, turn. ({YOKE_RND4_STS} sts)
### FRONT PANEL
^^Decrease Row(s): Ch1, hhdc, hhdc2tog, hhdc until 3 sts remain, hhdc2tog, hhdc. Turn. (-2 sts)
^^Even Row(s): Ch1, hhdc in each st across. Turn. (Stitch count remains the same)
Start at the Right Front Panel Marker. RS facing.
Rows 1 - {TAPER_TOTAL_ROWS}: Starting with a Decrease Row on Row 1, work a total of {DEC_COUNT} decrease sets. Space them out by working a Decrease Row every {DEC_RATE} rows. (Work Even Rows on all the rows in between your decreases). ({BOTTOM_WIDTH_STS} sts)
^If your rate is every 3 rows, you will work 1 Decrease Row followed by 2 Even Rows. If your rate is every 2 rows, you will work 1 Decrease Row followed by 1 Even Row.
Fasten off.
### BACK PANEL
Repeat the exact same instructions as the Front Panel, starting at the Right Back Panel Marker.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF at the end of the Back Panel. You are now positioned to begin the Border.
{BETA: Submit Beta Feedback (https://www.poppyshop.ca/beta-feedback?section=YOKE BASE)}
## YOKE & PANELS BORDER
### BORDER SETUP
Move the front and back panel stitch markers to the first and last stitches of the last row of the Front and Back Panels. (These 4 markers denote your panel corners).
^As you work, move these markers up to the new row to maintain the corner locations. The markers should always denote the center {BOTTOM_WIDTH_STS} sts of the Front and Back Panels.
Rnd 1 (RS) Back Panel Bottom: Ch1, hhdc {BOTTOM_WIDTH_STS} across the bottom, 2hhdc in the st you just worked (corner turn sts).
Back Slope toward shoulder:
^Treat each row end of the slope as one stitch.
Evenly space {PANEL_SLOPE_STS} sts down the back slope by working the following sequence: {PANEL_SLOPE_DIST}.
Shoulder: Hhdc across the unworked shoulder stitches. ({SHOULDER_GAP_STS} sts)
Front Slope away from shoulder:
^Treat each row end of the slope as one stitch.
Evenly space {PANEL_SLOPE_STS} sts up the front slope by repeating the sequence: {PANEL_SLOPE_DIST}.
Front Panel Bottom: Work 2hhdc in the marked st (corner turn). Work hhdc {BOTTOM_WIDTH_STS} across the bottom (starting in that same marked st). Work 2 hhdc in the st you just worked (corner turn).
Front Slope towards shoulder:
Evenly space {PANEL_SLOPE_STS} sts down the front slope by repeating the sequence: {PANEL_SLOPE_DIST}.
Shoulder: Hhdc across the unworked shoulder stitches. ({SHOULDER_GAP_STS} sts)
Back Slope away from shoulder:
Evenly space {PANEL_SLOPE_STS} sts up the back slope by repeating the sequence: {PANEL_SLOPE_DIST}.
Finish: 2hhdc in the very first st of the round (final corner turn). Join, Turn.
### LAST ROUNDS
Rnds 2-{BORDER_ROUNDS}: Ch1, hhdc around completing 2hhdc (for the corner turns) before and after every stitch marker, turn.
On the last round, join with a normal sl st. DO NOT TURN.
^You will be ending on a RS round.
(RS): Slst around the entire perimeter, join. Fasten off.
{BETA: Submit Beta Feedback (https://www.poppyshop.ca/beta-feedback?section=YOKE & PANELS BORDER)}
## DRAWSTRING CASING
^With a hook size 1.5mm smaller than the hook used for gauge.
Set Up Row (RS): Leaving an 8" (20cm) tail (for seaming later), join yarn at the bottom corner of the face opening (right where the chin bridge meets the vertical hood edge).
^ Treat each row end as one stitch.
Evenly space {CASING_SIDE_STS} sts up the side of the face opening by working the following sequence: {CASING_SIDE_DIST}.
Crown: Sc {CROWN_FINAL_STS} across the crown sts.
Evenly space {CASING_SIDE_STS} sts down the other side of the face opening by repeating the sequence: {CASING_SIDE_DIST}.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
### JAYG RIBBING
^The ribbing is worked perpendicular to the last row of the body.
Foundation (WS): With WS side facing, Ch {CASING_CH}.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (working into the spiny bumps of the chain). To join to the body: Slst into the next 2 sts of the body edge. Turn.
^Slst's not counted in final st count here and for the entire ribbing section.
Row 2 (WS): Skip the 2 slst's. Scblo in each st across, turn. ({CASING_STS} sts)
Row 3 (RS): Ch1, scblo across.
To join to the body: Slst into the next 2 sts of the body edge. Turn. ({CASING_STS} sts)
Repeat Rows 2 and 3: All the way around the opening of the hood. On the last row, fasten off leaving a long tail approximately 3 times the length of the hood opening for seaming. Use the tails to seam the casing tube shut.
### SEAM CASING
Fold the {CASING_STS}-stitch ribbing strip inward (toward the WS) along the Setup Row line, creating a tube. Pin or clip in place.
Sew: Using the long finishing tail and a tapestry needle, whip stitch the edge of the ribbing strip to the base of the Setup Row to close the tube.
^Do not worry about attaching the corners to the chin bridge yet. Just focus on closing the tube itself.
Anchor the Tube Openings: Now that the tube is formed, arrange the hood so the bottom corners sit evenly.
Starting Corner: Locate the 8" (20cm) tail (from the beginning of the Setup Row). Use this tail to sew the Back Layer of the casing tube (the side touching the neck) to the adjacent 3 stitches of the Chin Bridge.
Finishing Corner: Use the remaining length of your finishing tail (after completing the seam). Sew the Back Layer of this side to the remaining 3 Chin Bridge stitches.
{BETA: Submit Beta Feedback (https://www.poppyshop.ca/beta-feedback?section=DRAWSTRING CASING)}
## DRAWSTRING
(RS): Fltr {DRAWSTRING_STS}, turn.
### BORDER
(WS): Slst in each st across. Work 2 slst in the short end of the tie. Work along the opposite side of the foundation row: Slst in each st across. Work 2 slst in the last short end. Join. Fasten off and weave in ends.
### THREADING THE DRAWSTRING
Prep: Steam the drawstring so that it lays completely flat.
(RS): With RS of the hood and RS of the drawstring facing you:
1. Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of your finished drawstring.
2. Insert the safety pin into the opening at the right chin corner.
3. Feed the drawstring through the casing and out the left chin corner, keeping the Right Side of the drawstring facing out. Remove safety pin or bodkin.
Tacking the Drawstring: To prevent the drawstring from twisting inside the casing or being pulled out during washing, you can tack it in place at the center.
1. Locate the center back of the hood casing (at the crown).
2. From the Inside (WS) of the hood, use a split ply of the yarn to take a few small stitches through the Back Layer of the casing and the Drawstring.
3. This locks the tie permanently in position at the center.
###FINISHING
Weave in all ends and steam block for a polished finish.
{BETA: Submit Beta Feedback (https://www.poppyshop.ca/beta-feedback?section=DRAWSTRING)}
## CONGRATULATIONS!
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Use #BergenHoodedBib, #SmartPattern, and #PoppyShop
{FEEDBACK: Submit Pattern Feedback (https://www.poppyshop.ca/smart-pattern-feedback)}
