Mattress Stitch in Crochet
- Jan 14
- 3 min read
If you’ve ever finished a beautiful crochet garment or blanket only to feel like the final seams look a bit "handmade" (and not in the way you wanted), the Mattress Stitch is the technique you need to master.
While it’s often associated with knitting, it is an absolute game-changer for crochet. It creates an invisible, flat, and professional-looking seam that allows your stitch work to take center stage.
Why Use the Mattress Stitch?
Most crochet joining methods—like the slip stitch join or single crochet join—add bulk or create a visible ridge. The Mattress Stitch is different because:
It’s Invisible: When pulled taut, the yarn disappears into the seam.
It’s Flat: There is no bulky ridge on the inside of the garment, making it much more comfortable to wear.
It’s Forgiving: It’s easy to frog if you realize you’ve misaligned your rows.
What You’ll Need
A tapestry needle (bent-tip needles work best for picking up loops).
A long tail of the same yarn used for your project.
Your two finished crochet pieces, right sides facing up.
Step-by-Step Guide
1. Align Your Pieces
Lay your two crochet pieces side-by-side on a flat surface with the right sides (RS) facing you.
2. Secure the Yarn
Thread your tapestry needle. Start at the bottom corner. Insert your needle from back to front through the very first stitch of the left piece, then do the same on the right piece to anchor your yarn.
3. The "Ladder" Technique
Think of this stitch like lacing up a boot.
On the right side: Look for the horizontal bars or the "V" of the stitch along the edge. Insert your needle under the post or through the center of the stitch, coming out one row or stitch higher.
On the left side: Mirror this movement. Insert the needle into the corresponding spot on the left edge, moving upward.
Special circumstances: Seaming Ribbing When seaming any type of vertical ribbing, you can better preserve the "peak and valley" texture by varying your needle placement. Instead of catching the full stitch, try weaving through the posts of the stitches on one side and between the loops on the other. This prevents the seam from flattening the rib and keeps the transition between pieces looking continuous.
4. Keep it Loose (Until the End)
Don’t pull the yarn tight after every stitch. Leave the joining yarn a bit loose so it looks like a ladder between your two pieces. This allows you to double-check that your rows or stitches are perfectly aligned.
5. The "Magic" Pull
Once you’ve worked about 2 or 3 inches of the seam, grab your yarn tail and gently pull. You’ll see the two edges zip together, and the joining yarn will completely disappear.
Pro-Tips for a Perfect Seam
Row-to-Row Alignment: If you are seaming the sides of a sweater (where row ends meet), aim to insert your needle into the same spot in every row.
Don’t Over-Tighten: While you want the seam to be invisible, pulling too hard can cause the fabric to pucker or lose its elasticity.
Use Stitch Markers: Pin your pieces together every few inches with locking stitch markers. This ensures you don’t end up with one piece longer than the other by the time you reach the top!
When to Use This
The Mattress Stitch is ideal for:
Shoulder seams on sweaters.
Side seams where you want a tailored fit.
Ribbed Hat brims
Joining granny squares if you want a seamless, continuous look across a blanket.
Give the Mattress Stitch a try on your next project—it’s the simplest way to take your crochet from "crafty" to "couture."