Convertible Balaclava
Smart Knitting Pattern
SKILL LEVEL
◆ ◆ ◆ ◇ ◇ (Intermediate)
SIZES
Child through Adult 2XL
Custom Fit: Simply enter the intended wearer's head circumference and your stitch and row gauge into the generator, and the pattern will mathematically adjust to fit perfectly.
Standard Sizing (Perfect for Gifts!): Making this for someone else and can't measure their head? Just pick from the standard size chart and plug those numbers in, and click "GENERATE PATTERN"
NEEDLES
16" (40cm) circulars (in size for your gauge) and DPNs or your preferred small-circumference needles (like magic loop) of the same size for the crown portion. You will also need circular needles one to two sizes smaller than your main needles for all ribbed portions.
YARN
Weight: Sport (2), DK (3), or Worsted (4). Sample shows worsted (4).
Amount: Your exact yardage is automatically calculated based on your custom size and gauge.
GAUGE
Swatch your chosen yarn and enter your custom stitch and row gauge into the pattern generator. Or, for a traditional approach, simply input the sample's gauge information.
SAMPLE DETAILS
To replicate the exact look of the sample:
Size: Select your preferred size from the size standards chart below. The sample was knit in a size medium (22" head circumference).
Needles: 4.5mm 16" (40cm) circulars (or needle size that achieves the correct gauge) and double pointed needles of the same size (for the crown portion) and needle sizes one size smaller (4mm) for all ribbed portions.
Yarn: Custom-dyed 4-ply Worsted Weight yarn (185yds/100g).
Fiber Blend: Superwash Merino (80%), Cashmere (10%), Nylon (10%).
Amount Used: 260 yards (238 meters) for a size medium (22" head circumference).
Gauge: 20 stitches & 30 rows per 4" (10cm) in stockinette worked in the round.
NOTIONS
Scissors
5 regular and 2 locking stitch markers
Measuring tape
Tapestry needle
NOTES
Worked from the bottom up in the round.
The balaclava features a ribbed face covering for a snug fit around the face and neck which can be folded up to transform the balaclava into a hat.
Adjustments can be made to the length of the face covering portion according to personal preference.
Abbreviations
Tutorial Access
Specialty Techniques
SCHEMATIC
SIZE STANDARDS CHART
💡 No swatch yet? No stress. Just use the sample's gauge (20 stitches & 30 rows) for now to instantly calculate and generate a custom pattern preview. You can always come back and enter your exact stitch and row gauge when you're ready to start your project!
You can regenerate instructions and save them as a PDF for any size, at any time!
Your Gauge: per 4" (10cm) in stockinette worked in the round.
Stitches
Rows
Needle/Hook Sizes & Yarn Details
Enter actual head circumference below (or select from the Size Standards chart above).
Head Circumference
👋 WELCOME TO SMART PATTERNS
Enter your custom measurements above,
then click GENERATE PATTERN.
## 1X1 RIBBING
Rnd 1 (RS): [k1, p1] around, sm. ({BODY_STS} sts)
^Switch yarn colour if desired.
Repeat Rnd 1: For {2cm} or approximately {EYE_RNDS} rounds.
### BOTTOM OF EYE OPENING
Setup: Place two locking markers to define the boundaries of the eye opening:
Marker 1: At stitch {M1}
Marker 2: At stitch {M2}
Step 1: The Start (Marker 1)
Work in your established pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purls) until you reach the first marker.
Increase: Work a pfb into that marked stitch, then remove the marker.
Prep: Slip the stitch you just made from the right needle back to the left needle purlwise (inserting the left needle into the stitch from right to left). This stitch is now your anchor loop; do not work it again separately.
Step 2: The Opening
Start the {Icelandic Bind-Off (https://www.poppyshop.ca/post/icelandic-bind-off)} by reaching through the anchor loop. Continue binding off until you reach the second marker, but do not work into the marked stitch yet.
Step 3: The Finish (Marker 2)
Slip the stitch from your right needle back to the left needle. This stitch is now your final anchor loop.
The Decrease: Take the marked stitch and the one immediately after it, and pull them both through the anchor loop you just slipped. This binds them off together and completes the decrease. Remove the marker.
Step 4: The Finish
Work the rest of the round in pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purls) back to the Beginning of Round (BOR) marker.
Final Totals:
Opening: {OPEN_STS} stitches are now bound off.
Sides: {SIDE_STS} live stitches remain on each side.
Total Combined: ({BODY_STS} sts)
### TOP OF EYE OPENING
Step 1: The First Side
Work [k1, p1] for a total of {SIDE_REP} repeats. You should now be at the edge of the opening created in the previous round.
Step 2: The Bridge
Using the {Backward Loop Cast-On method (https://www.poppyshop.ca/post/backwards-loop-cast-on-knitting)}, cast on {OPEN_STS} to create stitches across the opening.
^Keep the cast-on loops snug. This method relies on tight tension to create flexible edge that compliments the Icelandic bind-off.
Step 3: The Second Side
Work [k1, p1] for a total of {SIDE_REP} repeats to finish the round, then sm.
Final Totals:
Cast-on of: {OPEN_STS} stitches to create the top on the eye opening.
Remaining: {SIDE_STS} stitches on either side of the cast-on stitches.
Total Combed: ({BODY_STS} sts)
### 1X1 RIBBING CONTINUED
Repeat Round 1 of 1x1 ribbing: For {2cm} or approximately {EYE_RNDS} rounds. ({BODY_STS} sts)
^Work the [k1, p1] directly into the cast-on stitches on the first pass.
## 1X1 RIBBING
Rnd 1 (RS): [k1, p1] around, sm. ({BODY_STS} sts)
^Switch yarn colour if desired.
Repeat Rnd 1: For {2cm} or approximately {EYE_RNDS} rounds.
### BOTTOM OF EYE OPENING
Setup: Place two locking markers to define the boundaries of the eye opening:
Marker 1: At stitch {M1}
Marker 2: At stitch {M2}
Step 1: The Start (Marker 1)
Work in your established pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purls) until you reach the first marker.
Increase: Work a pfb into that marked stitch, then remove the marker.
Prep: Slip the stitch you just made from the right needle back to the left needle purlwise (inserting the left needle into the stitch from right to left). This stitch is now your anchor loop; do not work it again separately.
Step 2: The Opening
Start the {Icelandic Bind-Off (https://www.poppyshop.ca/post/icelandic-bind-off)} by reaching through the anchor loop. Continue binding off until you reach the second marker, but do not work into the marked stitch yet.
Step 3: The Finish (Marker 2)
Slip the stitch from your right needle back to the left needle. This stitch is now your final anchor loop.
The Decrease: Take the marked stitch and the one immediately after it, and pull them both through the anchor loop you just slipped. This binds them off together and completes the decrease. Remove the marker.
Step 4: The Finish
Work the rest of the round in pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purls) back to the Beginning of Round (BOR) marker.
Final Totals:
Opening: {OPEN_STS} stitches are now bound off.
Sides: {SIDE_STS} live stitches remain on each side.
Total Combined: ({BODY_STS} sts)
### TOP OF EYE OPENING
Step 1: The First Side
Work [k1, p1] for a total of {SIDE_REP} repeats. You should now be at the edge of the opening created in the previous round.
Step 2: The Bridge
Using the {Backward Loop Cast-On method (https://www.poppyshop.ca/post/backwards-loop-cast-on-knitting)}, cast on {OPEN_STS} to create stitches across the opening.
^Keep the cast-on loops snug. This method relies on tight tension to create flexible edge that compliments the Icelandic bind-off.
Step 3: The Second Side
Work [k1, p1] for a total of {SIDE_REP} repeats to finish the round, then sm.
Final Totals:
Cast-on of: {OPEN_STS} stitches to create the top on the eye opening.
Remaining: {SIDE_STS} stitches on either side of the cast-on stitches.
Total Combed: ({BODY_STS} sts)
### 1X1 RIBBING CONTINUED
Repeat Round 1 of 1x1 ribbing: For {2cm} or approximately {EYE_RNDS} rounds. ({BODY_STS} sts)
^Work the [k1, p1] directly into the cast-on stitches on the first pass.
## BODY
Switch to the needle size you used to achieve your gauge.
Knit around, sm, until the hat measures {MEASURE_TO} from the first round of the 1X1 ribbing.
On the last round, create crown markers by placing markers at stitch numbers: {C_M1}, {C_M2}, {C_M3}, {C_M4}
^The crown markers divide the crown into four equal sections of {SECTION_SIZE} stitches, and decreases will be placed in alignment with the crown markers.
({BODY_STS} sts)
## CROWN
^^ Change to DPNs or your preferred small-circumference method (like magic loop) when the stitches become too tight for your circular needle.
Rnd 1 (RS): [k to 3 sts before crown marker, ssk, k1, sm, k2tog] around. (8 sts dec)
Rnd 2 (RS): Knit around, slipping markers as you reach them.
Repeat rounds 1-2: Until {REMAINING_STS} sts remain.
## FINISHING
Fasten off, leaving a {TAIL_LENGTH} tail and thread it through the remaining {REMAINING_STS} stitches 4-6 times to secure.
Weave in the ends and block for a polished finish.
### TRANSFORMING FROM BALACLAVA TO HAT
To switch from balaclava to hat without the eye opening peaking out:
Fold the bottom part of the ribbing up approximately one-third of its total length
Then fold once more, placing that second fold line approximately 1-2" below the start of the eye opening.
Adjust the placement so the ribbed fabric sits evenly around the hat, acting as a snug thick brim that keeps the opening securely pinned flat underneath.
## CONGRATULATIONS!
You just finished your Convertiblbe Balaclaval! Enjoy your custom hat that was calculated exactly for your unique tension. I hope you love your perfect fit!
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