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Convertible Balaclava

Smart Knitting Pattern

SKILL LEVEL

Moderate

SIZES

Child & Adult 

  • Custom Fit: Simply enter the intended wearer's head circumference and your stitch and row gauge into the generator, and the pattern will mathematically adjust to fit you perfectly.

  • Standard Sizing (Perfect for Gifts!): Making this for someone else and can't measure their head? No problem. Our generator includes a built-in Size Standards Chart (Child through Adult 2XL). Just pick a standard size, plug those numbers in, and click "GENERATE PATTERN"

NEEDLES

16" {40cm} circulars (in whatever size is required to achieve your chosen gauge) and double pointed needles of the same size for the crown portion. You will also need circular needles one to two sizes smaller than your main needles for all ribbed portions.

YARN

Weight: Sport (2), DK (3), or Worsted (4). 


Amount: Your exact yardage is automatically calculated based on your custom size and gauge. Simply enter your measurements into the pattern generator to reveal your custom yarn requirements. Planning your yarn purchase? Use the Sample Details listed below as a baseline, or plug estimated numbers into the generator for a quick yardage forecast before you shop.

GAUGE

Target Fabric Feel: Structured

Aim for a fabric that holds its shape. Go down 1 or 2 needle sizes from what your yarn label recommends.


The Goal: A structured, wind-resistant fabric.

GAUGE HUB
SAMPLE DETAILS

(For reference, if you want to replicate the exact look of the photos)

Size: Adult Medium

Needles: 4.5mm 16" (40cm) circulars (or needle size that achieves the correct gauge) and double pointed needles of the same size (for the crown portion) and needle sizes one size smaller (4mm) for all ribbed portions.

Yarn: Custom-dyed 4-ply Worsted Weight yarn (185yds/100g).

  • Fiber Blend: Superwash Merino (80%), Cashmere (10%), Nylon (10%).

  • Amount Used: 260 yards (238 meters).

  • Gauge: 20 stitches & 30 rows per 4" (10cm) in stockinette worked in the round.

NOTIONS

• Scissors

• 5 regular and 2 locking stitch markers

• Measuring tape

• Tapestry needle.

NOTES
  • Choose Your Size: If you are making for yourself or have access to the recipient, measure their exact head circumference and type that number into the generator for a bespoke fit. If you are knitting a gift and can't measure them, simply type in the circumference for their age group found in the Head Size Standards chart.

  • Your Custom Gauge: Remember to wash and block your swatch before measuring! Unblocked numbers will result in incorrect yardage and a poor fit.

  • This balaclava pattern is worked from the bottom up entirely in the round.

  • The balaclava features a ribbed face covering for a snug fit around the face and neck which can be rolled up to turn the balaclava into a hat.

  • Adjustments can be made to the length of the face covering portion according to personal preference.

Abbreviations

Tutorial Access

Specialty Techniques

SCHEMATIC
SIZE STANDARDS CHART

💡 No swatch yet? No stress. Just type in the gauge printed on your yarn's label (or use the sample gauge: 20 sts & 30 rows) to instantly calculate and generate a custom pattern preview. You can always come back and enter your exact numbers when you're ready to start your project!

Units of Measurement

Stitches per 4" (10cm)

Rows per 4" (10cm)

Needle/Hook Size (optional)

Enter your actual measurements below (or select from the Size Standards chart above).

Head Circumference

👋 WELCOME TO SMART PATTERNS

Enter your custom measurements above,
then click GENERATE PATTERN.

## 1X1 RIBBING

Rnd 1 (RS): [k1, p1] around, sm. ({BODY_STS} sts)

> Switch yarn colour if desired.

Repeat Rnd 1: For {2cm} or approximately {EYE_RNDS} rounds.


### BOTTOM OF EYE OPENING

Setup: Place two locking markers to define the boundaries of the eye opening:

Marker 1: At stitch {M1}

Marker 2: At stitch {M2}


Step 1: The Start (Marker 1)

Work in your established pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purls) until you reach the first marker.

Increase: Work a pfb into that marked stitch, then remove the marker.

Prep: Slip the stitch you just made from the right needle back to the left needle purlwise (inserting the left needle into the stitch from right to left). This stitch is now your anchor loop; do not work it again separately.


Step 2: The Opening

Start the {Icelandic Bind-Off (https://www.poppyshop.ca/post/icelandic-bind-off)} by reaching through the anchor loop. Continue binding off until you reach the second marker, but do not work into the marked stitch yet.


Step 3: The Finish (Marker 2)

Slip the stitch from your right needle back to the left needle. This stitch is now your final anchor loop.

The Decrease: Take the marked stitch and the one immediately after it, and pull them both through the anchor loop you just slipped. This binds them off together and completes the decrease. Remove the marker.


Step 4: The Finish

Work the rest of the round in pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purls) back to the Beginning of Round (BOR) marker.


Final Totals:

Opening: {OPEN_STS} stitches are now bound off.

Sides: {SIDE_STS} live stitches remain on each side.

Total Combined: ({BODY_STS} sts)


### TOP OF EYE OPENING

Step 1: The First Side

Work [k1, p1] for a total of {SIDE_REP} repeats. You should now be at the edge of the opening created in the previous round.


Step 2: The Bridge

Using the {Backward Loop Cast-On method (https://www.poppyshop.ca/post/backwards-loop-cast-on-knitting)}, cast on {OPEN_STS} to create stitches across the opening.

> Keep the cast-on loops snug to ensure the top edge of the eye opening stays firm and even.


Step 3: The Second Side

Work [k1, p1] for a total of {SIDE_REP} repeats to finish the round, then sm.

Final Totals:

Cast-on of: {OPEN_STS} stitches to create the top on the eye opening.

Remaining: {SIDE_STS} stitches on either side of the cast-on stitches.

Total Combed: ({BODY_STS} sts)


### 1X1 RIBBING CONTINUED

Repeat Round 1 of 1x1 ribbing: For {2cm} or approximately {EYE_RNDS} rounds. ({BODY_STS} sts)

> Work the [k1, p1] directly into the cast-on stitches on the first pass.


## 1X1 RIBBING

Rnd 1 (RS): [k1, p1] around, sm. ({BODY_STS} sts)

> Switch yarn colour if desired.

Repeat Rnd 1: For {2cm} or approximately {EYE_RNDS} rounds.


### BOTTOM OF EYE OPENING

Setup: Place two locking markers to define the boundaries of the eye opening:

Marker 1: At stitch {M1}

Marker 2: At stitch {M2}


Step 1: The Start (Marker 1)

Work in your established pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purls) until you reach the first marker.

Increase: Work a pfb into that marked stitch, then remove the marker.

Prep: Slip the stitch you just made from the right needle back to the left needle purlwise (inserting the left needle into the stitch from right to left). This stitch is now your anchor loop; do not work it again separately.


Step 2: The Opening

Start the {Icelandic Bind-Off (https://www.poppyshop.ca/post/icelandic-bind-off)} by reaching through the anchor loop. Continue binding off until you reach the second marker, but do not work into the marked stitch yet.


Step 3: The Finish (Marker 2)

Slip the stitch from your right needle back to the left needle. This stitch is now your final anchor loop.

The Decrease: Take the marked stitch and the one immediately after it, and pull them both through the anchor loop you just slipped. This binds them off together and completes the decrease. Remove the marker.


Step 4: The Finish

Work the rest of the round in pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purls) back to the Beginning of Round (BOR) marker.


Final Totals:

Opening: {OPEN_STS} stitches are now bound off.

Sides: {SIDE_STS} live stitches remain on each side.

Total Combined: ({BODY_STS} sts)


### TOP OF EYE OPENING

Step 1: The First Side

Work [k1, p1] for a total of {SIDE_REP} repeats. You should now be at the edge of the opening created in the previous round.


Step 2: The Bridge

Using the {Backward Loop Cast-On method (https://www.poppyshop.ca/post/backwards-loop-cast-on-knitting)}, cast on {OPEN_STS} to create stitches across the opening.

> Keep the cast-on loops snug to ensure the top edge of the eye opening stays firm and even.


Step 3: The Second Side

Work [k1, p1] for a total of {SIDE_REP} repeats to finish the round, then sm.

Final Totals:

Cast-on of: {OPEN_STS} stitches to create the top on the eye opening.

Remaining: {SIDE_STS} stitches on either side of the cast-on stitches.

Total Combed: ({BODY_STS} sts)


### 1X1 RIBBING CONTINUED

Repeat Round 1 of 1x1 ribbing: For {2cm} or approximately {EYE_RNDS} rounds. ({BODY_STS} sts)

> Work the [k1, p1] directly into the cast-on stitches on the first pass.


## BODY

Switch to the needle size you used to achieve your gauge.

Knit around, sm, until the hat measures {MEASURE_TO} from the first round of the 1X1 ribbing.


On the last round, create crown markers by placing markers at stitch numbers: {C_M1}, {C_M2}, {C_M3}, {C_M4}

> The crown markers divide the crown into four equal sections of {SECTION_SIZE} stitches, and decreases will be placed in alignment with the crown markers.

({BODY_STS} sts)

## CROWN

> Switch to dpn’s when there are too few stitches to work comfortably.

Rnd 1 (RS): [k to 3 sts before crown marker, ssk, k1, sm, k2tog] around. (8 sts dec)

Rnd 2 (RS): Knit around, slipping markers as you reach them.


Repeat rounds 1-2: Until {REMAINING_STS} sts remain.

## FINISHING

Fasten off, leaving a {TAIL_LENGTH} tail and thread it through the remaining {REMAINING_STS} stitches 4-6 times to secure. 


Weave in the ends and block for a polished finish.

## CONGRATULATIONS!

SHARE YOUR POPPY SHOP MAKE!


Congratulations on finishing your beautiful new project! We absolutely love seeing your creativity and colour choices.


Please share your finished work on social media and join the Poppy Shop community! On Instagram, tag @PoppyShopStudio 


Use #ConvertibleBalaclava, #SmartPattern, and #PoppyShop

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