The Backwards Loop Cast-On method, sometimes referred to as the "e-wrap cast on," is a convenient and straightforward technique in knitting. While it's not the go-to choice for starting a project due to its tendency to create loose stitches, it shines when adding stitches mid-row or mid-round. This method is especially handy for tasks like crafting buttonholes or incorporating additional stitches into the underarm of a top-down raglan sweater.

A Stretchy and Decorative Finishing Technique The Icelandic Bind-Off is a versatile and practical method used to finish knitting projects with a stretchy and decorative edge. Unlike traditional bind-off methods, the Icelandic Bind-Off offers unique features that make it a favorite among knitters looking to achieve a professional finish. The Icelandic Bind-Off pairs seamlessly with the German Twisted Cast-On, creating a cohesive and professional finish for your knitting projects. Both techniques offer exceptional stretchiness, making them well-suited for projects where flexibility and comfort are paramount. This pairing ensures consistency in elasticity from cast on to bind off, resulting in a polished edge that complements the overall look of the garment. Features: Stretchiness:  One of the standout features of the Icelandic Bind-Off is its exceptional stretchiness. This makes it ideal for projects where a flexible edge is desired, such as socks, hats, or garments with ribbed cuffs. Decorative Edge:  The Icelandic Bind-Off creates a decorative edge that adds visual interest to your finished piece. This makes it perfect for projects where the bind-off edge is visible and serves as a design element. Versatility:  Whether you're working with a simple stockinette stitch or a more intricate lace pattern, the Icelandic Bind-Off can adapt to a variety of knitting styles and textures. Its versatility makes it a valuable skill for knitters of all levels. Steps Knit the First Stitch:  Knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle as you normally would. Transfer the Stitch:  Use the left needle to pick up the stitch you just knit from the right needle, moving from right to left. This transfers the stitch back to the left needle. Knit the Second Stitch:  Insert your right needle purlwise under the first stitch (the one you just transferred) and knit the next stitch on the left needle (the second stitch). Slide the Second Stitch Off:  Slip the second stitch (the one you just knitted) off the left needle. Repeat the Process:  Start again from step 2. Continue Until Finished:  Repeat step 5 until you have only one stitch left on the right-hand needle. Finish the Bind-Off:  When you reach the last stitch, cut the working yarn, leaving a tail. Pull the yarn through the last stitch to secure it.

Note: I also refer to this stitch in some of my patterns as a modified single crochet. How to complete a modified waistcoat Stitch (modified single crochet): The modified waistcoat stitch creates a dense, warm fabric with moderate stretch and a knit-like appearance. This stitch is similar to a basic single crochet, with subtle adjustments to technique and stitch placement. To complete the modified waistcoat stitch: Insert your hook only  through the right post arm on the right side of the fabric (do not pass through both the right and left post arms on the wrong side of the fabric). Use the hook to gently pull the right arm toward the right, then slip the hook through to the opposite side of your work. The hook should exit on the opposite side directly beneath the front and back loops. Avoid letting the hook exit through the legs of the stitch, as it would in a traditional waistcoat stitch. Yarn over and pull through, drawing the loop slightly higher than your usual working height. This adjustment makes the next round easier to complete. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook to finish the stitch. The modified waistcoat stitch results in a dense, warm fabric, with moderate stretch and has an appearance similar to a knit stitch. The modified waistcoat stitch is almost identical to a basic single crochet, with some minor tweaks to technique and stitch placement. To complete the modified waistcoat stitch, only insert your hook through the right post arm on the right side of the fabric only (do not exit through the right and left post arms on the wrong side of the fabric). I find the technique of using the hook end to pull the right arm toward the right and then slipping the hook through to the opposite side of your work. The hook should exit on the opposite side directly under the front and back loops (it should not exit through the legs of the stitch on the opposite side as it would with a traditional waistcoat stitch). Yarn over and pull through drawing it up a tad higher than working height (this well make the next round easier to execute). Yarn over and pull through. This technique works best in patterns stitched in the round to maintain consistency, as turning the fabric can disrupt the stitch alignment and texture. Pictures are shown worked in the round, with no turning between rounds. Differences Between the Traditional and Modified Waistcoat Stitch The traditional waistcoat stitch  (also called the knit stitch in crochet) mimics the appearance of a knit fabric and creates a dense, structured texture. This stitch involves inserting the hook between the “legs” of the single crochet stitch, exiting through both the front and back loops of the previous row. The hook passes through the entire post of the stitch. The modified waistcoat stitch , on the other hand, alters this technique slightly: Instead of inserting the hook through both post arms (the front and back legs of the stitch), the modified version passes the hook only through the right post arm  on the right side of the fabric. The hook does not exit through the legs of the stitch on the opposite side. Instead, it exits directly below the front and back loops. The resulting stitch still creates a dense fabric, but it has a slightly different texture compared to the traditional waistcoat stitch. Key Differences in Appearance: Traditional Waistcoat Stitch : Produces a cleaner, tighter knit-like texture that is nearly identical to stockinette in knitting. The fabric has less stretch but more uniformity. Modified Waistcoat Stitch : Creates a slightly more textured surface with a unique look, while still resembling knit stitches. It retains moderate stretch and is less rigid. Both versions work best in patterns stitched in the round to maintain consistency, as turning the fabric can disrupt the stitch alignment and texture.

Crochet Abbreviations Your Go-To Guide for Crochet Abbreviations and Terms 3rd loops Stitch into the 3rd loops only CA Colour A CC Colour C or contrasting colour HOTH Hot off the hook MC Magic circle or main colour RS Right side WS Wrong side alt Alternate approx Approximately beg Beginning bet Between blo Back loops only bo Bobble bp Back post bpdc Back post double crochet bpdtr Back post double treble crochet bphdc Back post half double crochet bpsc Back post single crochet bptr Back post treble crochet bsblo2tog Bean stitch in the back loop only 2 together ch(s) Chain(s) chsp Chain space cl Cluster cont Continue csdc Chainless starting double crochet dc Double crochet dc2tog Double crochet 2 stitches together dec Decrease drop st Drop stitch dtr Double treble crochet edc Extended double crochet ehdc Extended half double crochet esc or exsc Extended single crochet etr Extended treble crochet fdc Foundation double crochet fhdc Foundation half double crochet flo Front loops only fo Finished object or finish off foll Following fp Front post fpdc Front post double crochet fpdtr Front post double treble crochet fphdc Front post half double crochet fpsc Front post single crochet fptr Front post treble crochet fpuff Front post puff stitch frog Term meaning to rip apart your work (after making an error) fsc Foundation single crochet hbdc Herringbone double crochet hbhdc Herring bone half double crochet hdc Half double crochet hdc2tog Half double crochet 2 together hhdc Herringbone half double crochet hk Hook hsc Herringbone single crochet inc Increase lbs Large bean stitch lcs linked crochet stitch lcs Linked crochet stitch ldc Linked double crochet lp(s) Loop(s) ltr Linked treble crochet ltr2tog Linked treble 2 together nontr Nonuple treble crochet octr Octuple treble crochet p Picot pc Popcorn stitch pm Place marker prev Previous puff Puff stitch rem Remaining rep Repeat rnd Round s-slst Surface slip stitch sc Single crochet sc2tog Single crochet 2 together septtr Septuple treble crochet sexttr Sextuple treble crochet sh Shell sk Skip slst(s) or sl st(s) Slip stitch(s) sm Slip marker sp Space st Stitch tbl Through back loop tch Turning chain tog Together tr Treble crochet tr2tog Treble crochet 2 together trtr Triple treble crochet v-st V stitch (most often a dc1, ch1, dc1 in the same st) wip Work in progress yo Yarn over yoh Yarn over hook 【 】 Repeat instructions between brackets as directed 𝓜 Place a stitch marker (if the 𝓜 is highlighted, use a marker the same colour) Also abbreviated as pm 𝓹 # Photo provided for reference

Knitting Abbreviations Craft Your Knits with Ease: The Ultimate Abbreviations Guide BFR Backward Front Row BLO Back Loop Only C4B Cable 4 Back C4F Cable 4 Front CA Cast Away (sometimes used in crochet) CN Cable Needle Cast-on Cast-on DPN Double Pointed Needles F/O Finish Off FLO Front Loop Only GCO Garter Cast-on Garter Garter Stitch K Knit K1b Knit 1 Backwards K1tbl Knit 1 through the Back Loop K2tog Knit 2 Together K2tog tbl Knit 2 Together Through the Back Loop K3tog Knit 3 Together Kfb Knit Front and Back (Increase) M1 Make 1 (Increase) M1L Make 1 Left (Increase) M1R Make 1 Right (Increase) P Purl P1tbl Purl 1 through the Back Loop P2tog Purl 2 Together P2tog tbl Purl 2 Together Through the Back Loop P3tog Purl 3 Together PM Place Marker Pfb Purl Front and Back (Increase) RM Remove Marker RS Right Side Rep Repeat SL Slip SM Slip Marker SSK Slip, Slip, Knit Sl1 Slip 1 (Slip one stitch) Sl1K Slip 1 Knitwise Sl1P Slip 1 Purlwise TBL Through the Back Loop Tog Together W&T Wrap and Turn WS Wrong Side YO Yarn Over st st Stockinette Stitch st(s) Stitch(es)

Baby Size Chart Find the ideal size for you little ones with our knit and crochet sizing guide, covering ages 3-24 months. 3 Months Chest 15.9" 40.5cm Waist 17.9" 45.5cm Hip 18.9" 48cm Shoulder - Shoulder 7.3" 18.5cm Nape Length 6.1" 15.5cm Arm Length 7.1" 18cm Arm Hole Depth 3.3" 8.5cm Uppper Arm 5.5" 14cm 6 Months Chest 16.9" 43cm Waist 18.9" 48cm Hip 19.9" 50.5cm Shoulder - Shoulder 7.7" 19.5cm Nape Length 6.9" 17.5cm Arm Length 7.3" 18.5cm Arm Hole Depth 3.5" 9cm Uppper Arm 6.1" 15.5cm 12 Months Chest 17.9" 45.5cm Waist 19.9" 50.5cm Hip 19.9" 50.5cm Shoulder - Shoulder 8.3" 21cm Nape Length 7.5" 19cm Arm Length 8.3" 21cm Arm Hole Depth 3.7" 9.5cm Uppper Arm 6.5" 16.5cm 18 Months Chest 18.9" 48cm Waist 20.5" 52cm Hip 21.1" 53.5cm Shoulder - Shoulder 8.5" 21.5cm Nape Length 8.1" 20.5cm Arm Length 9.6" 24.5cm Arm Hole Depth 3.9" 10cm Uppper Arm 6.9" 17.5cm 24 Months Chest 19.9" 50.5cm Waist 21.1" 53.5cm Hip 22" 56cm Shoulder - Shoulder 8.7" 22cm Nape Length 8.5" 21.5cm Arm Length 10.6" 27cm Arm Hole Depth 4.1" 10.5cm Uppper Arm 7.5" 19cm